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Overview of the town

A basin town on the banks of the Tuul and Selbe rivers, with Bayanzurkh Mountain to the east, Songino Mountain to the west, Bogd Khan Mountain to the south and Chingeltei Mountain to the north. The green summer is short, about two months in July and August, and winter is long and harsh, sometimes reaching minus 30°C.

Its origin is a religious city centered on Tibetan Buddhism. Buddhist monasteries that until then moved seasonally became a settlement in 1639 when Zanabazar (the first Jebtsundamba) set up a ger monastery on the banks of the Tuul and Selbe rivers. In the 18th century it settled in this place and became the present city blocks.

The main street is lined with stylish shops, cafes and department stores. In the Zaisan area, about 3 km south of the center, high-rise apartments are being built one after another. On the other hand, the city has problems of air pollution, traffic jams and waste disposal. The main cause of air pollution is smoke from coal stoves in the ger districts, especially serious in winter. Coal fuel was banned in 2019, and signs of gradual improvement have begun to appear. Used Japanese cars are popular, and Toyota Priuses make up most of the cars running in the city.

From the Airport and Station into Town

The air gateway, Chinggis Khaan International Airport, is about 55 km southwest of the city. It moved its functions from the old airport (now Buyant-Ukhaa International Airport) to handle increasing flights and opened in July 2021. From the airport to the city center it takes 60–90 minutes by car if all goes well. If you hit traffic, it can take more than double. Ulaanbaatar Railway Station is southwest of the city, and to the center you can take a bus or taxi, or depending on where you stay, even walk.

Transport from the airport

There are official shared buses and taxis. After exiting the arrivals hall, you can arrange them at the counter marked "TRANSPORTATION SERVICE."

• Shared bus: the official shared bus "Ulaanbaatar Airport Shuttle" (Ubus) departs as soon as passengers gather. Fares differ by vehicle size: 30,000 Tg for the 5-seater, 25,000 Tg for the 15-seater, 20,000 Tg for the 45-seater. Card payment is possible.
• Taxi: there are official taxis from VIP Service and Ulaanbaatar Taxi Transport Service. Convenient when you are in a hurry, and in principle fares within the city are flat.
• You can also contact your hotel or guesthouse in advance and ask for a transfer. Often paid, but reliable.

Transport from Ulaanbaatar Station

• Bus: the bus stop toward the city is on the opposite side of the street in front of the station. Route buses Ч:27 and Ч:29Б go to the city center. The fare is 500 Tg. At the convenience store in the station you can buy the prepaid card "U money" needed to pay for buses.
• Taxi: a fair fare from the station to the city center is about 3,000–4,000 Tg (as of December 2023). For safety, it is best to avoid private taxis (unlicensed cabs). Many hotels and guesthouses offer free transfers, so ask in advance.

Getting Around Ulaanbaatar

The center of town is the main street, Enkh Taivan (Peace) Avenue. Sukhbaatar Square is here, with Nomin Department Store, the Central Post Office and embassies of many countries. The Central Post Office and Sukhbaatar Square lie in the geographic center of the town, so it is good to start walking from here. Around them are government buildings, the Ulaanbaatar Hotel, the Blue Sky Hotel and more.

Walking west along Seoul Street, before the State Drama Theater, you will find stylish restaurants, cafes and shops, and eventually reach a promenade. The promenade connects the old circus to the south with Nomin Department Store to the north, with a Beatles monument in the center. In summer food stalls line up, busy with students and families enjoying street food and drinks.

City transport

• The main transport in the city is route buses, trolleybuses and taxis. Traffic jams are serious, and worst at the end of August when the Mongolian school term starts, in the December Christmas season, and before Lunar New Year. Depending on the period, driving restrictions by license plate (odd/even) are enforced to ease traffic, but jams do not go away.
• Because of traffic jams, getting around the city can take more than an hour, so walking can save time. If you have time to spare, a bus lets you glimpse citizens' daily life. However, pickpocketing is frequent, so be careful, for example by holding your bag in front of you.
• Most taxis are private cabs (unlicensed). It is hard to find a regular taxi, and locals use unlicensed cabs every day. A guide fare is 1,500–2,000 Tg per km. "UBcab" is a ride-hailing app that calls nearby drivers, shows a meter and has clear fares, and its users are increasing. For safety, travelers unused to the city should avoid unlicensed cabs.
• Many bus routes enter the city center from the suburbs, loop around the city and return. Bus routes change often, so be careful.

Ulaanbaatar Highlights

Zaisan Tolgoi (Зайсан толгой)

[A monument with a view over all of Ulaanbaatar] A victory monument on a hill about 3 km south of Sukhbaatar Square, built in 1971. It is a circle of concrete, and the inner side has a mosaic mural depicting friendship and mutual aid between the Mongolian and Soviet peoples. It is striking that soldiers of both armies are shown trampling and breaking the flags of Imperial Japan and Nazi Germany. It has become accessible from the Zaisan Square Mall, completed in 2018. From the top you can see the whole city of Ulaanbaatar. The Buddha statue on the west side at the foot is also a popular sightseeing spot.

Bogd Khan Palace Museum (Богд хааны ордон музей)

[Palace of Mongolia's last emperor] The palace where the last emperor of the Greater Mongolian state, the Bogd Khan, the 8th reincarnate lama, lived until his death. It was built from 1893 to 1903. The grounds have wooden temples, gates, a library and more, and the inside is a museum collecting mandalas and Buddhist art. The famous "21 Taras" by the reincarnate lama Zanabazar are displayed in the innermost Lavrin Temple. Outside the gate is the two-story Winter Palace, with many items associated with the Bogd Khan on display.

Gandan Monastery (Гандантэгчилэн хийд)

[Center of Mongolian faith] Its formal name is Gandantegchinlen Monastery. A Tibetan Buddhist temple founded in 1838 by the 5th Bogd Khan reincarnate lama. Its function as a temple was taken away under the radical leftist regime but restored in 1944. Even in the socialist era it remained the center of faith for Mongolians. In the Avalokiteshvara Hall stands the 25 m tall Migjid Janraisig (Avalokiteshvara with opened eyes), built by the blind 8th Bogd Khan (reigned 1911–1924) in prayer for a cure. The architecture, using not a single nail, is also impressive.

Chinggis Khaan National Museum (Чингис хаан Үндэсний музей)

[The history of the Mongol Empire all in one place] A history museum opened in October 2022 on the site of the former Natural History Museum. It mainly holds about 140,000 crafts and practical items owned by emperors and nobles of the Mongol Empire. The exhibition area covers six floors, from the 3rd to the 8th. It introduces history in order, from the Xiongnu empire, a nomadic state founded in the 3rd century BC, to the early 20th century. Main exhibits show English explanations when you scan a QR code. There are many exhibits, so allow plenty of time. A cafe and souvenir shop are attached. The building is a dome shaped like a ger.

National Museum of Mongolia (Монголын үндэсний музей)

[Come here to know Mongolian history] Many exhibits characterizing Mongolia's historical changes, from the Stone Age to the democratic revolution, are lined up. The collection of about 50,000 items makes up 30% of all Mongolian museums. After democratization, the exhibits shifted to consider the identity of the Mongolian people. It also puts effort into archaeological research and shows research results in the permanent exhibition. Limited-time special exhibitions are held frequently. You can also see folk costumes and household tools from around Mongolia.

Sukhbaatar Square (Сүхбаатарын талбай)

[The national square to visit first] A cobblestone square south of the government building. Statues of the three khans, Chinggis, Ogedei and Khubilai, sit here, and in the center is an equestrian statue of the revolutionary Sukhbaatar. It was renamed Chinggis Khaan Square in 2013 but went back to Sukhbaatar Square in 2016. It is also a place of rest for citizens, and toward summer evenings friends and families gather from nowhere. Open 24 hours.

Choijin Lama Temple Museum (Чойжин ламын сүм музей)

[A temple museum in the city center] A temple built from 1904 to 1908 for Choijin Lama Luvsankhaidav, the younger brother of the 8th Bogd Khan reincarnate lama. Masks and instruments used in the Tibetan Buddhist Tsam festival (mask dance), held once a year, are on display. Once a year an outdoor night museum is held where you can enjoy traditional dance and song (80,000–150,000 Tg).

Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts (Занабазарын нэрэмжит дүрслэх урлагийн музей)

[Mongolian Buddhist art gathered together] A national art museum displaying Buddha statues by Zanabazar, Mongolia's first reincarnate lama and said to be an outstanding artist, "A Day in Mongolia" by the national painter Sharav, and appliqué Buddhist paintings. It holds 12,000 art and craft items from ancient times to the early 20th century. The museum was renamed in 1995 to commemorate the 350th anniversary of Zanabazar's birth. It is an elegant two-story building. Opening: 9:00–18:00 (9:00–17:00 in winter; from 10:00 on Saturdays and Sundays). Admission: adults 15,000 Tg, children 1,500 Tg, photography 45,000 Tg. Video recording requires advance application.

Zhukov Museum (Жуковын музей)

[A museum named for a Soviet soldier] A museum honoring the achievements of Georgy Zhukov (1896–1974), the soldier who commanded Soviet forces in the Nomonhan Incident. It was built to commemorate the 40th anniversary of victory in that incident. Focused on his life, it displays military uniforms and weapons he used. Mosaics are set on either side of the entrance.

Mongolian Military Museum (Монгол цэргийн музей)

[See the history of Mongolia's national defense] Opened in 1966, with the present building built in the 1990s. Historical materials on the Mongolian army from the socialist era are displayed. The exhibits of soldiers' personal belongings from the 1939 Nomonhan Incident (Battle of Khalkhin Gol) are moving. Outdoors are exhibits such as tanks and fighter planes.

Mongolian National Modern Art Gallery (Монголын уран зургийн галерей)

[Rich in works unique to Mongolia] It holds about 4,000 works of art, such as paintings and sculptures, created since the founding of the Mongolian People's Republic. Many works depict the life unique to Mongolian nomads and the beauty of nature such as steppe and desert, which makes you even more interested in Mongolia. Works depicting socialist ideals in the appliqué technique, originally used to make Buddhist paintings, are precious and unique to Mongolia.

Dashchoilin Monastery (Дашчойлин хийд)

[A historic temple closely tied to Ulaanbaatar's history] Commonly known as Zuun Khuree (Зүүн хүрээ). An important temple for Ulaanbaatar, which began as a Buddhist city. It was built in 1890 but destroyed in the late 1930s during the socialist era and converted into a circus hall. Some people still call it the "old circus." It was revived in 1990 and now has three ger-shaped buildings and more than 100 monks. In the early morning the sound of sutra chanting from services flows through the temple, which is pleasant. Once a year the traditional religious event Tsam is held. The date follows the lunar calendar and changes each year (in 2023 it was held on July 15). Completion was said to be scheduled for 2024.

Where can you see them? Dinosaur fossil specimens

Mongolia is a treasure house of dinosaur fossils, and having come here you will surely want to see dinosaur skeletons in person. As of November 2023, they can be seen in a corner of the shopping mall "Khunnu Mall" near Buyant-Ukhaa International Airport. It is an official facility exhibited and run by the national dinosaur fossil research institute, the "Institute of Paleontology and Geology of the Mongolian Academy of Sciences," with academic fossil display methods and explanations. The drawback is that it is a little away from the center and often caught in traffic.

• Dinosaur museum in Khunnu Mall: take bus M3, Ч:7 or Ч:9 and get off at Khunnu Mall (Хүнну Их дэлгүүр); it is right there. 11:00–19:00, closed Mondays, 4,500 Tg.
• If you are short of time, the "Natural History Museum" in the city center (the former Dinosaur Museum; some exhibits from the old Natural History Museum were moved and merged, and the name changed) is recommended. The researchers who study dinosaur fossils are not there, but it is a convenient facility for learning about Mongolia's nature and dinosaurs.
• In summer 2023 a dinosaur festival was held at Bayanzag in the South Gobi, and dinosaur fans gathered from around the world. There are also moves to build a paleontology museum centered on Mongolian dinosaurs south of Ulaanbaatar.

Places Japanese Visitors Should See

After World War II, many Japanese were interned in Mongolia, then under the influence of the former Soviet Union, and did forced labor in various places. Places that tell this history remain around Ulaanbaatar too.

Memorial for Japanese Who Died (Япон цэргийн дурсгалд зориулсан цогцолбор)

A memorial for about 1,700 Japanese who died while interned in Mongolia after World War II. On the site of the Dambadarjaa cemetery, where remains were collected by Japan's Ministry of Health and Welfare (now the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare) from 1999 to 2001, a memorial monument and memorial hall were built. At the top of the monument are set two kinds of stones in the shape of doors. They symbolize the friendly relations in which both countries look back on history and move toward a bright future. In 2017, to commemorate the 45th anniversary of Japan–Mongolia diplomatic relations, 20 cherry trees were planted.

• Location: about 8 km northeast of the city center, in a place with a good view. Reached from Ulaanbaatar Station by bus Ч:27 and others. Open to visitors until sunset, free.
• It is currently managed by the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare, entrusted to the Mongolian Red Cross Society. To enter the memorial hall, have the caretaker who lives on the grounds unlock it. The caretaker speaks only Mongolian.

Dambadarjaa Monastery (Дамбадаржаа хийд)

A monastery built from 1761 to 1765 in memory of the 2nd Jebtsundamba reincarnate lama. In its day, 25 monks' quarters and more stood here, and 1,500 monks lived there. Today the restored temples, stupas, two bell towers and monument towers remain. There is also a building (rebuilt) used at the time as a hospital for Japanese internees, and a Japanese memorial hall. The Japanese memorial hall was built with his own funds by an army doctor who was himself an internee. Belongings of those who died are displayed, and you can sense the regret of those who died without setting foot on Japanese soil.

• Location: near the site of the Japanese cemetery. Take bus Ч:28 from in front of the Flower Center and others, and get off at Khan Bank. Open daily, free. The Japanese memorial hall is locked, so ask to have it opened. You may not be able to visit.

Ulaanbaatar's Modern Architecture and "Nogoon Nuur" (Green Lake)

In the city center, east of Sukhbaatar Square, stands a striking pink, elegant building. It is the State Academic Theater of Opera and Ballet. Many people do not know that behind this splendor is the harsh history of Japanese held as prisoners in Mongolia after World War II. At that time the internees were forced to do the hard labor of cutting stone from a rock cliff. The quarried stone was processed into gravel and used for the foundation work of the opera theater and the area around Sukhbaatar Square.

The site of that quarry is in a ger district on the outskirts of Ulaanbaatar with a view over the whole town. Today the place has been reborn as a children's park called "Nogoon Nuur (Green Lake)," busy with people boating in summer and skating in winter. It was a local person who turned this place, once a dumping ground, into a park. After learning that the place was the site of the Japanese internees' forced labor, he has collected photos and materials from the time. In summer 2022 he opened the memorial museum "Sakura" (free admission) to convey that history to the next generation. The former site of hard labor has now become a community place where people gather across generations and nationalities. Perhaps the souls of the Japanese who died without being able to return to their homeland are a little comforted. (Please check the museum's current status in advance.)

Zuunmod (Зуунмод)

The capital of Central (Tuv) Province. Located about 43 km south of Ulaanbaatar. Surrounded by mountains designated as national parks, such as Bogd Khan Mountain and Bat Khan Mountain, it is blessed with beautiful scenery. The road network is developed, and many people commute to work or school in Ulaanbaatar. With the opening of Chinggis Khaan International Airport in 2021, it was also decided to upgrade it to a satellite city. As a city around the new airport, further development is expected.

Manzushir Monastery (Манзуширын хийд)

A former monastery nestled on Bogd Khan Mountain. About 5 km from Zuunmod. A former monastery halfway up Bogd Khan Mountain National Park, in a place overlooking beautiful nature. It was founded in 1733 but destroyed in 1937 by religious persecution in the socialist era. At the time more than 500 monks served there, and it was a huge religious complex of as many as 20 great temples. Today the great temple that enshrined the Manjushri Buddha (bodhisattva) is in ruins, and there are a monastery and a nature museum displaying stuffed animals and more. From the temple you can hike to Tsetseegun Mountain (2,268 m), the highest peak of Bogd Khan Mountain National Park.

Zuunmod Museum (Зуунмод музей)

To learn about local history and nature. Besides seeing stuffed animals native to Mongolia up close, materials on the history and famous people of this area are displayed. There is also a bronze statue of Dogsomyn Bodoo, from Tuv Province, who was active in the People's Revolution. A small museum marked by yellow walls and a green roof.

Hustai National Park (Хустайн байгалийн цогцолборт газар)

A national park of about 50,000 hectares. You can observe wildlife while moving by car through the large grounds. About 50 kinds of mammals live in the park, such as deer, gazelles and marmots, and it is especially famous for protecting the Przewalski's horse (takhi in Mongolian). Because it was discovered in 1879 by the Russian explorer Przewalski, it is also called "Przewalski's horse." The wild species went extinct, but species preservation was pursued in captivity, and as of 2023 the number has reached over 420. The best chances are early morning and after evening, when they come to drink water.

Undurshiret (Өндөрширээт)

A small village on the banks of the Tuul River flowing across the vast steppe southwest of Ulaanbaatar. Exactly midway between Kharkhorin and Ulaanbaatar, it is a perfect overnight stop for a motorbike trip. At Undurshiret Riverside Camp, the only hot air balloon flight in Mongolia lets you enjoy a 360-degree panorama of the steppe. There are also rock paintings nearby. Horse trekking and river rafting are possible too.

Aglag Buteel Monastery (Аглаг бүтээлийн хийд)

A temple about 100 km northwest of Ulaanbaatar. Built halfway up a mountain of lush coniferous forest, it has a good view. Inside the temple are many sutras, Buddhist paintings and Buddha statues. The museum on the second floor displays things collected by the high monk who founded the temple, such as the shed skin of an anaconda and a unicorn skull. Outside are a large rock you can crawl through and stone statues.