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Learning About Mongolian Life and Culture

Introduction

Life on the steppe preserves many customs handed down from long ago. If you have the chance to visit a ger, here is what is good to know.

When You Enter a Ger

First, after entering the ger, move clockwise and take a seat at the table. A hat is regarded as part of formal dress, so it is fine to keep it on. When you want to take it off, shape it and place it with the opening facing down. Treating a hat carelessly, such as crumpling it, stepping on it or sitting on it, is bad manners in Mongolia, so be careful.

Inside a ger, the host comes first in everything. There is a custom of serving tea and meals to the head of the household before the guest.

How to Take Tea

Soon after you sit at the table, salty milk tea "suutei tsai" is served. At this time, notice which direction the spout of the tea pot points. You will find it is not pointed toward the door of the ger. This is because it is believed that good luck goes outside along with the tea being poured.

Also be careful how you use your hands when passing tea. Mongolians offer the bowl with the fingertips of the left hand lightly supporting under the right elbow. When receiving, do the same, receiving with the right hand with the left hand added, or take it with both hands. It is a way of passing that can be used in many situations, so remember it.

You do not have to finish the tea, but always take at least one sip before putting it down. It is courtesy to the people of the home hosting you. The same applies when homemade cheese such as "aaruul" or sweets are served. Don't hold back; take one from the large plate and taste it.

Mealtime

If you are lucky you may see a sheep being slaughtered during your trip. The captured sheep has its legs tied and is laid on its back. A small cut is made in its chest with a knife, a hand is inserted through it, the artery beside the heart is severed, and the sheep soon dies. So as not to stain the earth with blood, the blood is collected in the abdominal cavity of the sheep lying on its back. That blood is carefully scooped out and later made into sausage.

Before eating a butchered animal, Mongolians always throw a piece of its meat into the fire. It is a sign of thanks to the god of fire and to the livestock.

The representative meat dishes of the summer steppe are probably "khorkhog," the hearty dish in which heated stones and meat are layered in a can and steamed with more fire from outside, or fresh salt-boiled meat "tsanasan makh." If bone-in meat is on the table, do watch how Mongolians eat it. You can see them scrape even the thin membrane cleanly off the bone with a knife so that no scraps remain. The bones Mongolians have finished are astonishingly beautiful, shining.

In summer you may also be served fresh homemade dairy products such as airag, cheese, cream and yogurt. Even yogurt fermented until it bubbles has a wild flavor for those used to mild tastes. For some reason only with yogurt, Mongolians lick the finished bowl with the tongue until it shines. Young and old, men and women, do this as a matter of course.

At mealtimes, readily ask for refills. Eating a lot is a sign of thanks and friendliness to the family, so do not hold back. When you are full, say clearly "bolson (no more, thank you)." Declining is not rude, but do not forget to also say "bayarlalaa (thank you)."

When Leaving the Ger

At last the time comes to leave the ger. Finally, take a bite of some food before leaving your seat. It is a stylish custom expressing thanks for the hospitality received.

For a long parting between close people, as a farewell greeting you kiss only one cheek. Normally you greet with both cheeks, but this once the other cheek is saved "until we meet again."