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Sukhbaatar (Сүхбаатар)

The capital of Selenge, the farming province that supports Mongolia's stomach

The capital of Selenge Province, in Mongolia's grain belt. All over town there are monuments shaped like ears of wheat. Because it borders Russia, there are many Russian-style buildings and shops selling Russian goods, and railways and roads are well developed. Buses, taxis and trains to and from Ulaanbaatar and Russia come and go constantly. During World War II many Japanese prisoners of war were interned here, but today few even among local people know of it.

Getting around and highlights

A compact town that can be walked from end to end. The road running east-west in front of the station is the main street. Trade with Russia is lively, and Russian goods can be bought at markets and shops. There are also cute pastry shops and coffee shops, making it a good town for a break. Wild fruit grows on the riverbank where the Selenge and Orkhon rivers meet. A little way out of town you can observe wild animals such as foxes, wolves and hedgehogs. There are also taxis that will take you around the sights for about 100,000 tugrik per car.

Site of the Japanese Cemetery

The site of the cemetery of Japanese soldiers sent to Sukhbaatar as prisoners of war between 1945 and 1947. Turn left after the international shopping center on the road toward Altanbulag, and it is on a hill reached by walking along the power lines. It was once maintained, with a gate and fence, but is now neglected. The Japanese prisoners are said to have been put to construction of a timber factory and forced labor in it, and many died of malnutrition, cold and other causes. Many of the remains were collected in the 1990s as a joint project of the Japanese and Mongolian governments and returned to Japan.

Saikhan Khutul Hill (Сайханы хөтөл)

A hill said to be the birthplace of Khulan Khatun, a consort of Chinggis Khaan. You can look out over the point where the two great rivers, the Selenge and the Orkhon, meet. It is a famous spot that Mongolians visiting Selenge Province always go to. There is also a jeep line sliding down between the hills (about 20,000 tugrik), letting you enjoy the view as you cut through the wind.

A tip: at the zakh (market) in Sukhbaatar, rare local specialties such as smoked fish and big loaves of bread are on sale. Be sure to visit.

Murun (Мөрөн)

The gateway to sightseeing in Khuvsgul Province

The capital of Khuvsgul Province, with the 5th largest population in the country (42,855, 2023). The town began in 1809, when a monastery called "Murungiin Khuree" was built on the banks of the Delgermurun River. The monastery grew to a scale with over 1,300 monks in the early 20th century but was destroyed in 1937 in the socialist era. Since 2014 the power situation has improved, and the use of coal, a cause of serious air pollution, has been greatly reduced. In Khankh, at the northern tip of the province, border trade with Russia is lively, and it is the economic center.

Getting around and highlights

The area around Chingunjav Park is the administrative district with the provincial government building. The street one block north is the main street, where hotels and shopping centers are gathered. The area around the intersection with the Chinggis Hotel is the town center.

Gandan Dardzhaalin Monastery (Гандандаржайлин хийд)

A monastery named in the hope of a "place of perfect joy". The monastery and temples were destroyed in 1937, but donations were gathered in 1990 and it was restored on the site of the former main monastery, Choigchin Monastery. The name comes from when "Murungiin Khuree" was built in 1809, when monks named it in Tibetan. It is also the highest institution of learning in Mongolian Buddhism.

Khuvsgul Provincial Museum (Хөвсгөл аймгийн орон нутаг судлах музей)

A museum with very interesting exhibits on the life and culture of the Mongolians who live in large numbers in Khuvsgul Province, such as the Darkhad, and on shamans. A zoological collection was added in 1987, and a geology exhibition began in 2010. There are also exhibits about shamans.

Ushigiin Uver Site (Ушигийн өвөр)

A place where deer stones stand, full of historical romance. A group of deer stones at the southeast foot of Mount Ushig, with many khirigsuur (stone mounds) nearby. The roughly 30 deer stones are about 133 cm tall at the lowest and about 375 cm at the highest. On the south face of the pillars, human faces are carved realistically, along with decorations such as earrings and necklaces. Deer are drawn on the lower part of the pillars. They are estimated to date from the 10th to 6th centuries BC. The human-faced deer stones show the transitional period before stone figures were made by Turkic peoples and are valuable material for the study of stone figures.

Deer Stone at Lake Erkhel (Эрхэл нуурын буган чулуу)

A deer stone said to be the tallest in the world!? It is on the west side of Lake Erkhel, beside the shortest route to the Darkhad Valley. According to local people, it is the tallest deer stone in the world.

Lake Khuvsgul (Хөвсгөл нуур)

One of the few ancient lakes remaining on Earth

Boats connect Khankh village at the northern end of the lake and the town of Khatgal at the southern end. In winter (late December to mid-February) when the lake freezes over, transport by car over the ice is lively. It is a popular spot even within the country, and the tourist camp area on the lakeshore is crowded with tourists.

Khatgal Port (Хатгал боомт)

"Mongolia's only port". It is a port the Mongolian navy (until 1997) once used to carry oil and supplies from Russia. Now only in summer, supply transport and the tourist boat "Sukhbaatar" operate. Souvenir shops are gathered around the port.

Mongolia's Three Big Winter Tourism Festivals

Mongolia, which declares itself a tourism nation, puts effort into three big events held in the severe cold. The dates change every year. Please ask us for the latest schedule.

A scenic paradise protected by permafrost. A place where, listening to the voices of the spirits, you can meet people who live with reindeer like fairies of the forest.

What Is the Darkhad Valley?

The Darkhad Valley is a large basin extending over 100 km from north to south. On permafrost ground, rivers flowing out of the surrounding mountains pour into Lake Tsagaan to the north. Because the permafrost layer stores water, there are many rivers, lakes and wetlands in the basin, and the plants are lush, giving it an atmosphere different from other parts of Mongolia.

In the rainy summer the land is cut up by overflowing rivers, and wetlands become a great obstacle for cars. In winter the snow is deep, and the frozen rivers and lakes cool this land to nearly minus 50°C. For the people living in extremely harsh nature that does not go their way, shamans who can deal with the spirits of the natural world are needed, and here shamans are still active. A shaman calls up spirits, preaches their teachings and conveys people's wishes. The shamans of this region are known even among Mongolians to be especially powerful.

The south of the basin is open and rich in pasture. There are also many yaks, and Mongolian yaks are known for having no horns (the ones with horns are a cross between a yak and a Mongolian cow, called "khainag" in Mongolian).

The Road from Murun to the Valley

• Go north on the paved road from Murun toward Khatgal, and partway on enter an unpaved (dirt) road. The road is rocky, and in some sections speed drops below 30 km/h.
• You cross the Tomiin Davaa pass, followed by the Uliin Davaa pass (elevation 2,000 m). At Uliin Davaa pass there are 13 ovoo (prayer cairns of stacked stones and timber) made of assembled wood, with a large ovoo in the center and six lined up on each side. On the top of each is a board with the zodiac sign written on it. This pass is the entrance to the basin, and local people call it the "door of the valley". About 185 km from Murun.
• After descending the pass, forest presses close to the roadside. Passing through the forest and running along the river, you enter the center of Ulaan-Uul district (about 200 km from Murun). The town is surrounded by forest, with wooden houses with colorful roofs lined up. The white triangular mountain Delgerkhaan (elevation 3,087 m) is clearly visible and is an important mountain loved by the local people.
• After passing through the town and crossing the Mungarag River, climb the hill on the right. It is a place called Bayan Uul, and you can take in Delgerkhaan and the south of the basin in one view.
• The further north you go, the more wetlands and rivers there are. From the Khetsdavaa pass, just before the center of Tsagaan-Nuur district, you can look down on many lakes.

People Living with Reindeer in the Taiga

In the taiga region there are people who live raising reindeer. They are called the Tsaatan (those who have reindeer). Most are Tuvan people, whose mother tongue is the Turkic Tuvan language. They have lived hunting and gathering in the taiga, riding reindeer and using them as an everyday means of transport. However, in the socialist era their way of life was changed from hunting and gathering to one centered on reindeer herding. Under the influence of the surrounding Mongolian people, their customs and language have gradually become Mongolized.

How to Get There and Travel Tips

• The best way to reach the Darkhad Valley is to charter a car from Murun, because it is hard to get new transport locally.
• There is a gate at the entrance to the basin, where you pay the national park entrance fee (5,000 tugrik). If no one is there, pay at the visitor center in town.
• If you do not go as far as the taiga and sightsee in the lowlands of the basin, entry registration with the border guard is not needed.
• If the taiga is your destination, you need to complete registration with the border guard at the center of Tsagaan-Nuur district (about 100 km from Ulaan-Uul).
• When entering the taiga, it is common to have horses and reindeer arranged at the Tsaatan center or lodging in the town of Tsagaan-Nuur. However, rather than arranging on the spot, it is safer to ask a travel agency or similar to arrange them before leaving Murun.
• Assume that basically only Mongolian is understood everywhere.
• Prepare warm clothing, rain gear, highly waterproof shoes and insect repellent. Even in summer, snow may remain at the top of passes.